There are different methods which can be used for multiplication of various fruit plants commercially-1. Division 2. Cutting 3. Layering 4. Budding 5. Grafting.
Asexual propagation involves no change in genetic make-up of the new plant. All the characteristics of the parent plant are reproduced in the daughter plant due to exact duplication of chromosome system that takes place during cell division. Thus, the plants are true-to-type in growth, ripening, yield and fruit quality.
Method # 1. Division:
It is a method of asexual propagation by which vegetative part that separate naturally from the parent plant or may be readily separated from it, is used. These include rhizomes, suckers, offsets, crowns, runners, etc.
(a) Rhizomes:
Botanically, a rhizome is an elongated, horizontal fleshy underground stem having nodes and internodes bearing buds in the axils of reduced scale leaves e.g. banana. The rhizomes are cut into pieces, each with one or two viable bud and planted in favourable atmospheric conditions. Adventitious roots and shoots develop from the nodes.
(b) Suckers:
A shoot arising on an old stem or underground part of the stem or on horizontal root systems is known as sucker e.g. date-palm, pear, banana and pineapple. These shoots, when separated from the mother plant and transplanted produce adventitious roots. In banana, sword suckers are commonly used for propagation of plants.
(c) Offsets:
An offset is a characteristic type of lateral shoot or branch that develops from the base of the main stem in certain plants e.g. pineapple, date-palm. Offsets are removed by cutting them close to the main stem with a sharp knife.
(d) Crowns:
It is a very short condensed part of plant at the surface of the ground which gives rise to new shoots. The crown is principally a point of location near the ground surface making the general transition zone between stem and root. Crown grown on top of the pineapple fruit is a vegetative growth attached to the central core of the fruit which is used as planting material. Splitted crown into four to eight pieces can also be used but they take longer duration to bear fruits.
Method # 2. Cutting:
Cutting is the method of propagating fruit plants by the use of detached plant parts which when placed under favourable conditions develop into a complete plant resembling in all characteristics to the parent from which it was taken. This method is commonly used in plants which root easily and readily, thus, multiplication of plants is very quick and cheap. Some fruit plants such as grape, plum, pear, pomegranate, fig, baramasi lemon, sweet lime and hill lemon (gal gal) are commercially propagated by cuttings.
Cuttings are broadly classified into four groups i.e. stem cuttings, leaf cutting, leaf bud cutting and root cutting:
1. Stem Cuttings:
Stem cuttings can be divided into four types i.e. hardwood, semi-hardwood, softwood and herbaceous cuttings.
i. Hardwood Cuttings:
Hard wood cuttings are prepared from the trees when the tissues are fully mature. The shoots of about one-year-old or more can easily be used for preparing hard wood cuttings. In case of deciduous fruit plants such as grape, pomegranate, plum, pear, phalsa and fig, the cuttings are made after pruning (December-January). The pruned wood can be used for preparing such cuttings. In sweet lime, hill lemon (Gal gal) and baramasi lemon, the cuttings can be prepared during the spring (February-March) and rainy season (August-September).
Generally, the cuttings of 15-20 cm length and having 3-5 buds are made. The lower cut is given in a slanting manner just below the bud to increase the absorption of nutrients. The upper cut is given at a right angle (round) to reduce the size of the wound and as far as possible away from the upper bud to avoid its drying. After the cuttings are prepared they should not be allowed to dry. These cuttings are usually tied in small bundles (20-25 cuttings) and buried in moist soil/ sand for a certain period for healing of wounds which is known as callusing.
Rooting Media:
The rooting media for planting cuttings should be loose and easily workable to facilitate planting of cuttings and particularly the lifting of the plants with little damage to the roots. It should be well drained, free from fungi and bacteria and available at reasonable cost. Generally the sand alone and a mixture of sand and farmyard manure are used for planting the cuttings.
a. Sand:
Sand is most widely used media for propagating plants from cuttings. It is well aerated and useful for extensive root growth. It is low in water holding capacity and cuttings planted in it must be watered frequently. Since sand contains little or no organic matter, it does not harbour disease organisms. Since it is low in nutrition, plants should be supplied with nutrients for better growth. For better results, sand should be sterilised before use.
b. Mixture:
Mixture of sand and well-rotten farmyard manure (1:1) is also commonly used for propagation of plants by cuttings. It is well drained and also holds sufficient moisture for root development. It is rich in nutrients. The mixture should be treated with 5 ml of chlorphyriphos 20 EC mixed in about 2 kg soil to avoid the attack of termites to cuttings.
ii. Semi-Hardwood Cuttings:
Semi-hardwood cuttings are prepared from partially mature but tender woody shoots. Citrus and olive can be propagated in this manner. The cuttings are made 7.5 to 15 cm long with leaves retained at the upper end. The shoot terminals are often used in making cuttings but the basal parts of the stem will usually root also. The cutting wood should be obtained in the cool, early morning hours when the stems are turgid. Intermittent moist sprays of water and treatment with auxins have been reported to be beneficial.
iii. Softwood Cuttings:
Cuttings are prepared from the soft, succulent terminal portion of woody perennials. Although fruit tree species are not commonly propagated by softwood cuttings, those of apple, peach, pear, plum, apricot and cherry will root, especially under mist. It is desirable to retain some leaves on the cuttings for photosynthesis. Large leaves should be reduced in size to lower the transpiration rate and to occupy less space in the propagating bed. Soft wood cuttings are 7.5 to 12.5 cm long.
The basal cut is given just below the node. The leaves on the lower portion of the cuttings are removed, while those on upper part retained. Cuttings should be taken from slightly mature but flexible, moderately vigorous shoots in March-April in deciduous plants and May-September in evergreen plants. Cuttings put forth roots within 15-30 days if temperature is between 20-25°C and humidity is at 80 per cent. The exogenous application of auxin helps in better rooting in softwood cuttings.
iv. Herbaceous Cuttings:
Herbaceous cuttings are the tender succulent special leafy part of the stems of herbaceous plants. The terminal 7.5 to 12.5 cm of a healthy shoot is cut and the basal leaves are removed leaving the upper leaves undisturbed. They are rooted under the same conditions as softwood cuttings, requiring high humidity. Herbaceous cuttings of some plants that exude a sticky sap such as pineapple do better if the basal ends are allowed to dry for a few hours under low light conditions before they are inserted in the rooting medium. The application of auxin promotes the regeneration of adventitious roots.
2. Leaf Cuttings:
In leaf cuttings, the fleshy leaf or leaf blade and petioles are used as propagating materials. Adventitious roots and an adventitious shoot form at the base of the leaf and develop into the new plant; the original leaf does not become a part of the new plant. New plants arise at the point where the veins are cut. High humid condition is essential for better success in leaf cutting. Leaf cuttings have very little application on fruit crops.
3. Leaf-Bud Cuttings:
A leaf-bud cutting consists of a leaf blade, petiole and a short piece of the stem with the attached axillary bud. This method is practised in black raspberry, blackberry, lemon, etc. Leaf-bud cuttings are best made from material having well developed buds and healthy, actively growing leaves. The adventitious roots are found at the base while the dormant bud develops into new shoot system. High humidity is essential and bottom heat is desirable for rapid rooting.
4. Root Cuttings:
The root cutting method is followed in apple, pear, cherry, guava, wood apple etc. The root cuttings should be taken from root pieces of young stock plants in late winter or early spring when the roots are well supplied with stored foods but before new growth starts. It is important with root cuttings to maintain the correct polarity when planting as the new shoot develops from the proximal end i.e. from the part close to the crown. The proximal end of the root piece should always be up.
Method # 3. Layering:
Layering is a method of vegetative propagation which can very easily be used for the multiplication of fruit plants, especially those which do not root readily from cuttings or graft easily. In layering, the roots are induced on the shoots while they are still attached to the mother plants.
Like other methods of vegetative propagation, such as cutting, budding and grafting, the plants propagated by layering also are true-to-type in growth, yield and fruit quality. Moreover, much larger and mature plants can be obtained by layering as compared with other methods of vegetative propagation.
Most commonly used methods of layering are:
(i) Ground Layering:
This type of layering is also known as simple layering. It is commonly known as Dab. In this method, a branch of plant is drawn to the soil. This is then fastened firmly with a wooden hook. A ring of bark about 2.5 cm in diameter is removed just below the bud to encourage rooting. This portion of the branch is covered with moist soil, keeping the terminal portion of the branch uncovered. The soil is regularly watered to keep it moist.
Within a few weeks, the roots are formed and the new plant is separated from the mother plant. Separation should be done in such a way that the rooting goes along with the new plant. These new plants should preferably be planted in pots or nursery rows for development of better root system and shoot system before planting in the fields.
Several new plants can be prepared from a single tree, depending upon the vigour of mother tree and the number of branches available for burying in the soil. Lemon and limes can easily be multiplied by this method.
(ii) Air Layering:
This is also known as goottee or hawaii dab. In this method one-year-old, healthy and straight shoot is selected and a ring of bark measuring about 2.5 cm just below a bud is removed. Moist sphagnum moss is placed around this portion and is wrapped with a polythene strip. It is light in weight, and has a very high water-holding capacity being able to absorb 10 to 20 times its weight of water. If moist sphagnum moss is not available, then a mixture of clay soil and cow dung (1:1) can be used to cover that portion of the shoot from where the ring of bark has been removed.
This is then wrapped with a moist piece of gunny bag which, in turn, is covered with a polythene sheet. The clay cow dung mixture along-with moist gunny bag also retains sufficient moisture for root development. The polythene covering does not allow the moisture to come out but permits gas exchange. Moreover, the layers need not to be watered afterwards which saves considerable labour.
Air layering can be practised during February-March and July-August in guava, litchi, sapota, loquat, etc. After a few weeks the roots are developed, which are visible, through the polythene covering. Then a half way cut should be given to the rooted layers on the parent branch at least 15 days prior to their permanent removal from the mother plant.
At the time of separation, a few leaves or small shoots should be removed from the rooted layers to keep an optimum balance of root and shoot. It is also advisable to plant these rooted layers in the nursery for close attention than to plant them directly in the field. These layers can be planted in the fields during the following year in February or September-October.
(iii) Tip Layering:
It is generally followed in plants which have trailing type of shoots. In this type of layering, tips are buried to a depth of about 7.5 cm or they may be buried in pots filled with rooting medium leaving a few cm of the shoot tip above ground. The covered portion strikes roots within 2-3 weeks. The rooted layer is then removed and transplanted either in the nursery bed or in a pot. This method of propagation is used usually in black berries, raspberries, and gooseberries.
(iv) Trench Layering:
Trench layering consists of growing a plant or a branch of a plant in a horizontal position in the base of a trench. The soil is earthed up around the new shoots as they develop so that shoot bases are etiolated. For the establishment of mother tree one year old budded/grafted plants are transplanted in 45-75 cm apart on an angle of 30-45° down a row. The rows should be 1.2 to 1.5 metres apart wide enough to allow the cultivation.
The plants are then cut back to uniform height of 45-60 cm and are left to grow for one season. In case of walnut, plants can be placed horizontally in the trench and the developing shoots are layered in the first year.
Before the beginning of the growth in the spring the parent plant/branches of the plant are bent over into a shallow trench of 5-7 cm and the tip and internodes are usually pegged to hold the stem in place. All part of the plant/branch should be completely flat on the floor of the trench. Before the buds swell, the entire layer is covered with 2.5-5.0 cm fine soil or other rooting medium. When the developing shoots have pushed through the first layer of soil then add another layer of soil which is gradually increased as the shoots grow till basal 5-8 cm portion of the shoots are etiolated.
By mid-summer, process of adding the soil is repeated until the layered branches is covered to depth of about 15 cm. In late autumn or early spring the soil is removed from around the layered shoots and each rooted layer is cut off from the original mother plant very close to the base. These layers are planted under shade. Every year new shoots arising from adventitious buds of mother plants can be pegged down to produce new supply of rooted layers.
This method is primarily used for propagating certain fruit tree rootstocks difficult to propagate by other methods. Clonal rootstocks of pear, cherry, some Mailing rootstock of apple and various types of quince are generally propagated by this method.
(v) Compound or Serpentine Layering:
It is essentially the same as simple layering except that the branch is alternately covered and exposed along its length. The branch to be layered by this method is usually long and flexible. The exposed part of the branch should have at least one bud on it develop new shoots.
The etiolated part gives rise to roots underneath. After rooting takes place, the branch is cut in section made up of the new shoots and the portion containing roots. Several new plants are thus possible from a single branch. The portion desired to form roots may also be treated with root promoting hormones. This method is used for propagating Muscadine grapes.
Method # 4. Budding:
Budding is a form of grafting in which only one bud is inserted in the rootstock. This method is very easy and fast. In budding, the bud wood is greatly economised as compared to grafting. Budding is done in citrus, peach, ber, almond, pear and plum. This method is generally employed during spring and rainy season. As soon as the bark starts slipping both on the stock and scion, this is considered to be the optimum time for budding. This shows that the cambium which is the tissue responsible for union is active.
Selection of Rootstock:
The rootstock should be prepared well before budding is started. This can be done by removing the leaves and thorns around the place where the bud is to be inserted. The stock should be uniform, healthy and of a diameter equal to that of a pencil (1 cm). The stock should be actively growing so that the bark will separate readily from the wood. The rootstock should have a proper vigour and growth and have wide range of edaphic adaptability habits. It should be resistant to soil borne diseases and other pests. The age of the rootstock should be one and half year and not more than two years.
Selection of Inter-Stock:
Inter-stock is a piece of stem inserted by means of two graft unions between the stock and scion. It is used to avoid incompatibility between the stock and scion and to make use of winter hardy trunk. The advantage of dwarfing rootstock can be availed off e.g. apple. To restore tree size and improve rooting in apple e.g. MM111 rootstock with M9 inter-stock, MM106 rootstock with M9 inter-stock.
(i) ‘T’-Budding:
This is also known as shield budding. This is the most common method of budding used in most of the commercial fruits like citrus, apple, pear, peach, almond, ber, aonla etc. First a horizontal cut about 1/3rd the distance around the stock is given on the stock 15-20 cm above the ground level. Another vertical cut 2-3 cm in length is made down from the middle of the horizontal cut and the flaps of the bark are eased with the ivory end of the budding knife to receive the bud.
After the ‘T’ has been made in the stock, the bud is removed from the bud stick. To remove the shield of bark containing the bud, a slicing cut is started at a point on the bud-stick about 1.25 cm below the bud, continuing underneath about 2.5 cm above the bud. A second horizontal cut is then made 1.25 to 2 cm above the bud, thus permitting the removal of the shield piece.
Tie shield is removed along with a very thin slice of wood. The shield is, then, pushed under the two raised flaps of bark until its upper horizontal cut matches the same cut on the stock. The shield should fit properly in place, well covered by the two flaps of bark, but the bud itself exposed. The bud union should be wrapped with polythene strip to hold the two components firmly together until the union is completed. T-budding can be performed at any time of the year provided cell-sap flows freely. In most fruit trees it is performed either in the spring (March-April) or in the rainy season (July-September) period.
(ii) Patch Budding:
This type of budding is quite successful in guava and it gives 60 to 70 per cent success during May and June. Freshly cut angular bud-wood from current season’s growth should be used as scion. A rectangular or square patch or piece of bark about 1.5 cm broad and 2.5 cm long is removed from the rootstock at about 15 to 20 cm from ground level. A similar patch with a bud on it is removed from the bud stick taking care not to split the bark beneath the bud. This patch is then transferred to the rootstock and fixed smoothly at its new position and tied immediately with polythene strip.
Improved patch budding in guava is quite successful and gives 75-80 per cent success during May – June. A semi-circular or a rectangular patch of bark (2.5 x 1.0 cm) with two buds is removed from the scion stick taking care that the bark does not split. It is then fixed on the exposed portion of the rootstock and tied immediately with the polythene strip leaving both the buds uncovered. The polythene is removed after a week or so when the bud-take has occurred. When the shoot developing from the buds have attained a length of 15-20 cm, retain the vigorously grown shoot and remove the weaker one. Aonla is commercially propagated through patch budding from June to September
(iii) Inverted T-Budding:
This is another method of budding which is commonly used at places where rainfall is heavy. In this case the horizontal cut is first made at the desired height on the stock and the vertical cut is given at top rather than below as in the case of T-budding. It is generally seen that the insertion of the bud shield is much easier and faster in inverted T as compared to straight T-budding.
(iv) Ring Budding:
This method is commonly used for budding peaches, almond, ber and mulberry. This is a tedious and time consuming method and the plants in which this method is usually practiced can easily be T-budded.
Ring budding is similar to patch budding, the only difference being that cylindrical portion of bark about 1.5 cm in thickness is removed instead of a rectangular or square patch. The ring of bark containing the scion bud is placed smoothly into the cylindrical slot made by removing the bark from the rootstock. The bud wood is then tied with a plastic tape. In ring budding, when the scion bud fails to grow the top portion of the rootstock also dies because it is girdled. This method is followed when bark slips freely.
(v) Chip Budding:
This method is usually employed when the stock and scion are still dormant, that is just before the start of new growth. For this, 2.5-2.8 cm long slanting cut is given into the wood or stock. Another cut at the lower end of this first cut is given at an angle of 45° and the chip of bark is removed from the stock. The bud from the scion wood is removed in the same way so that it matches the cuts given in the rootstock.
This chip with a bud on it is fitted smoothly into the cut made in the rootstock taking care that the cambium layers of the stock and the scion unite at least on one side. The bud is then tied and paraffin wax is applied to prevent drying up of the bud. The plants budded by this method have a long growing season and make bigger trees in the nursery. When, the chip budding fails on certain stocks, ordinary T-budding is then practised in the normal budding season.
(vi) Forkert Budding:
In this, a transverse cut about 1.25 cm long is given on the rootstock at an appropriate height. Two vertical cuts, one from each end, are made to a length of about 1.5 cm. The bark so demarcated is carefully peeled out but it remains attached with the rootstock on the lower side. The scion-bud of a size corresponding to the size of cut made on the rootstock is removed and fitted into the exposed part of the rootstock.
This bud is covered with the bark flap of the rootstock and tied with polythene strip. After about 4 weeks when the union between the bud and the stock has occurred, polythene wrapping is removed and flap is also cut off. As the bud starts growing, rootstock top is also cut off. This method is followed for propagation of mango and aoula plants.
(vii) I-Budding:
In I-budding two transverse cuts are given on the bark of the stock which is connected by one vertical cut at their centres. The flaps are then loosened with the spatula of the budding knife. The scion bud is prepared correspondingly and inserted into the I-cut, followed by tying. I-budding is practised where the bark of stock plant is thicker than scion.
(viii) Flute Budding:
It is just like ring budding except with the difference that while removing the patch of bark en-circling the rootstock, a narrow strip of bark is left on the rootstock. While removing the bud from the bud stick, two transverse cuts, one below the bud and the other above the bud are made around the bud stick. Then a vertical cut is made to connect the horizontal cuts and the patch with a bud (flute) is removed. After placing this flute on the stock, it is tied with a polythene tape. When the union between the bud and the rootstock has been completed and the bud shows signs of sprouting, the tape is removed and top of the rootstock is cut back.
Method # 5. Grafting:
Grafting is a method of vegetative propagation where two plant parts are joined together in such a manner that they unite and continue their growth as one plant. In this method, the scion twig has more than two buds on it.
Grafting is commonly done in pear, peach, plum, almond, mango, guava, loquat, sapota, etc. In temperate fruits like peach, plum and almond grafting is done when the plants are dormant but in mango, guava, loquat and sapota, the operation is carried out when the trees are in active growth.
The following methods of grafting are commercially followed in these fruit plants:
(i) Tongue Grafting:
This method is very useful for grafting nursery stock. Top working with tongue can also be done when the plants to be top-worked are quite young with branches only one centimeter in thickness. In this method, stock and scion should be of equal diameter. First, a long, smooth, slanting cut of about 4 to 5 cm long is made on the rootstock but if the top growth is quite heavy then it is better to remove the top with the secateurs before making the slanting cut.
Another downward cut is given starting approximately 1/3 from the top and about a centimeter in length. Similar cuts are made in the scion wood exactly matching the cuts given in the rootstock. The scion having 2 to 3 buds is then tightly fitted with the rootstock taking care that the cambium layer of at least one side of the stock and scion unites together. This is then wrapped with polythene strip.
(ii) Cleft Grafting:
This is also known as wedge grafting. This method is useful in the nursery where the rootstock is quite thicker than scion and tongue grafting cannot be employed successfully. The stock upto 8 cm in thickness can be grafted with this method.
The rootstock to be grafted is cut smoothly with secateurs or saw. It is then split in the middle down to about 4 cm. The bud stick having 3 to 4 buds is trimmed like a wedge at the lower end with outer side slightly broader than the inner side. The lower bud on the scion should be located just where the wedge starts. The scion is than fitted well into the stock making sure that the cambium layers of both the stock and the scion are perfectly matched. Tongue and cleft grafting are performed in pear, peach, plum and almond during dormant period i.e. December-January.
(iii) Inarching:
This is also called approach grafting as the scion remains attached to the parent tree till the union is completed and the stock plants are raised in pots and placed on raised platforms are brought in contact with the scion shoots. Alternatively, the mother plants are trained to be low headed and the stock is sown under their canopy. When these rootstock plants become ready for grafting, the inarching is done right there.
In this method, the diameter of the rootstock and scion should be approximately the same about 1.25 to 1.5 cm. A slice of bark along with a thin piece of wood about 4 cm long is removed from matching portions of both the stock and the scion. They are then brought together making sure that their cambium layers make contact at least on one side. These grafts are then tied firmly with polythene strip or any other tying material. The stock and scion plants are watered regularly to hasten the union.
The union is complete in about 2 to 3 months. A cut is then given to the scion shoot about half way through its thickness. If the shoot does not show any sign of wilting for a week or s it is completely detached from the mother plant. In case the scion starts wilting, it shows that the union is not complete. In such cases the scions are detached from the mother plants after some days when the union is complete. This method is commonly followed in mango, guava, loquat, sapota and aonla. Last week of July or the first week of August is the best period for inarching.
(iv) Side Grafting:
This method is very successful for propagation of mango and it has replaced veneer grafting in the commercial multiplication of mango plants. This method is more efficient and cheaper than even inarching.
A three-sided rectangular cut about 4 x 1.25 cm is made on the rootstock at a height of about 15-20 cm from the ground level and the bark of the demarcated portion is lifted away from the rootstock. A matching cut is also made on the base of the scion to expose cambium. The length of the scion should not be more than 7.5 cm otherwise considerable breakage of the grafted plants in the nursery may occur. The scion should be prepared well before the actual grafting is done.
The healthy scion shoots from the last mature flush are selected for this purpose. The selected scion shoots should have plump terminal buds. Those with swollen, protruded auxiliary buds should be avoided as the use of such shoots has been found to produce malformed plants. After the selection of the scion shoots, remove the leaf blades, leaving petioles intact. In about 7 to 10 days, the petioles shall drop and terminal buds become swollen. At this stage the scion stick should be detached from the mother tree and grafted on the stock.
The prepared scion is inserted under the bark flap of the rootstock so that the exposed cambia of the two components are in close contact with each other. The bark flap of the rootstock is resorted in its position. The graft union is then tied firmly with polythene strip. After the completion of the grafting operation, a part of the top of rootstock is lopped to encourage growth of the scion. When the scion has sprouted and its leaves turned green, the rootstock portion above the graft union should be cut away. Side grafting can be carried out successfully from March to October but July to September is the best time.
(v) Veneer Grafting:
Mango can also be propagated through this method. A shallow downward cut of about 4 cm long is given on the rootstock at a height of about 15-20 cm from the ground level. At the base of this cut, a second short downward and inward cut is made to join the first cut, so as to remove a piece of wood and bark. The scion is prepared exactly as in side grafting. The cuts on the rootstock and the scion shoot should be of the same length and width so that the cambial layers of both components match each other. Then, the prepared scion is inserted into the rootstock and tied securely with polythene strip. After the union is complete the stock is cut back, leaving the scion to grow. July-September is the best time for doing veneer grafting.
(vi) Whip or Splice Grafting:
This method is useful for grafting for relatively thin material i.e. 0.8-1.2 cm diameter and is highly successful due to considerable cambial contact. It heals quickly and makes a strong union. The diameter of stock and scion should be uniform. The scion should contain two or three buds with the graft made in the smooth internode area below the lower bud. The cut made at the top of the stock should be exactly the same as those made at the bottom of the scion. The length of the cut is kept 2.5-5.0 cm and cut is given with the single stroke of the knife. Then they are tied and whole union is covered with grafting wax. This type of grafting is done in early spring.
(vii) Saddle Grafting:
Diagonal cuts of equal length are made on the scion and stocks of equal girth in the form of saddle to match each other. The cuts are brought together facing cambium layers, tied securely and coated with grafting wax.
(viii) Bark Grafting:
This method is rapid, simple, rapidly performed and highly successful. It can be easily performed on branches ranging from 2.5-3.0 cm diameter. Healing of thicker branches is difficult. Two or three or more scions are inserted per stub depending upon the thickness of the branch. The scions should be dormant 10-15 cm long containing 3-4 buds and of 0.75 to 1.25 cm diameter. One cut of about 5 cm long is made along one side at the base of the scion. In the stock, for each scion, a vertical cut about 5 cm long is made at the top end of the stub through bark to the wood. The bark is lifted and scions are placed. Then they are waxed.
(ix) Epicotyl or Stone Grafting:
The method is commonly practiced in mango. Stones are sown in moist sand bed and covered with 5-7 cm layer of leaf mould for germination. When the seedlings are of 15 days old they are taken out and grafted indoor. The top of the seedling is removed by giving a slanting cut at height of 5 cm from the stone. The scion shoot of 8-10 cm long from current season’s growth is prepared by giving a slanting cut at the base in one side so as to match with the cut end of stock.
It is then placed on the stock and tied with polythene tape. The grafted seedling is then planted in a polythene bag containing sand, soil and farmyard manure at a ratio of 1: 1: 1 and watered immediately. The polythene bags are kept in a partial shade condition and watered daily. When the scion produces four true leaves, they are transplanted in the nursery bed.